2009年3月7日 星期六

Alber Elbaz By Natalie Portman

Alber Elbaz By Natalie Portman from TIME magazine.

His time as designer at Lanvin that has earned him a seat among fashion legends. His pieces, he says, reflect the many hats a woman might wear during a single day: mother, lover, executive, partygoer. A fitting philosophy for a house that began as a millinery in 1889.

To me, he's the ultimate fashion philosopher-mentor. He says things to me like "Wear flats. You're short. It's much cooler not to pretend." Alber, 45, does not attribute any grandiose meaning to clothes: the transformation a woman feels when she puts on one of his dresses should originate in her rather than the cloth.

Alber often goes down to the store from his studio above it to speak to his customers or adjust the length of a skirt or the size of a hoop earring. He designs according to what he learns from his clients and so accurately intuits what will make a woman feel good in her body—and even better when swathed in an awe-inspiring dress.














鍾意Portman係因為這個殺手不太冷,因為佢既氣質,因為佢既審美眼光。係紅地毯上,佢每每比人驚喜,一條又一條既LANVIN dress,一次又一次時裝界傳媒比佢既肯定,都證明Elbaz既成功。

呢篇專訪,Portman以一個穿LANVIN既女人既角度去講Elbaz,令我更明白Elbaz既時裝哲學.

http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/time100/article/0,28804,1595326_1595332_1616649,00.html

2009年3月6日 星期五

The Bow Man - Alber Elbaz















Alber Elbaz once thought about becoming a doctor, and his approach to design is a combination of the analytical and the beautiful. He is fascinated by women — by their desires, their responsibilities, their various guises — and in each collection for Lanvin, he has sought to find a way to decode that tangle of moods.
Like a physician, Elbaz looks for remedies, a solution to any dressing dilemma. “In the end,” he explained recently, as he was designing his spring collection, “you don’t need that much. When I left New York for France, I took only two suitcases. I always construct my collections with that thought in mind.”When I design, I don’t think about a particular body part — I think about what women want and what they dream.” With that in mind, Elbaz offered some tenets of his fashion philosophy.
"People keep trying to divide designers into optimists and pessimists, but me—I'm a realist," declared Alber Elbaz. "I thought with my heart about what women need from fashion—dresses, suits, blouses, coats. Life isn't just parties and lunches."

"What I always hope is to make women feel good in their body with my designs, " Elbaz said.

“I am overweight, so I am very, very aware of what to show and what not to show, and I am sure there is a huge link with being an overweight designer and the work I do. My fantasy is to be skinny.”

p.s.當然,佢肥肥矮矮,煲呔加粗框眼鏡既趣志外型令佢既魅力大增。

2009年3月2日 星期一

Biography of Alber Elbaz

In 1961, Alber Elbaz, an Israeli citizen, was born in Casablanca, Morocco.

In 1971, when he was 10 years old, Alber, two brothers, two sisters and their Jewish parents immigrated to Israel from Morocco.

In 1982-1986, after mandatory military service in the Israeli Defence Forces, he studied at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design (as it is known today) in Ramat Gan, near Tel Aviv, Israel.

In 1987, he moved to New York City, worked for two years for a manufacturer of mother-of-the-bride clothing. Eventually, he went on to work for Geoffrey Beene for seven years. He claims to have benefited appreciably from his time with Beene, influenced by Beene's rejection of trends and masterful drape and fit. "It was a very beautiful relationship... Our best dialogue was not in words," Elbaz has reminisced.

In 1997, Elbaz left Beene and, through retailer Dawn Mello, was hired by the firm of Guy Laroche. But, by the time of Elbaz's arrival, the Laroche enterprise had become overly conservative and lackluster. Even so, Elbaz was able to update the collection and somewhat enhance the image of the firm, whose activities at the time included the management of 15 boutiques and 70 license agreements worldwide. However, he departed within a year.

In 1998, he began designing ready-to-wear women's clothing for Yves Saint-Laurent, because Saint-Laurent himself wished to withdraw from his hands-on design of prêt-à-porter. In the position, Elbaz's talent was recognized, and he would have become the head designer of the house when Saint-Larent retired.

However, this was not to happen because the Gucci Group purchased YSL Rive Gauche, the ready-to-wear label, and, hence, Gucci design director Tom Ford dismissed Elbaz after 3 collections.Elbaz then began working for Krizia in Italy and designed a well-received inaugural collection, but the circumstances were not to his liking.

In August 2001, the company had been purchased by investor group Harmonie S.A., led by Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate, who hired Elbaz. In Juen 2005, he gained the International Award, Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

In October 2001, after Krizia, he was appointed artistic director of Lanvin in Paris. Lanvin is the oldest extant fashion house worldwide, having been founded by Jeanne Lanvin, who began making dresses in 1909 and millinery earlier.

In 2006, Elbaz introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a light forget-me-not blue color, a favorite shade which Lanvin purportedly had seen in a Fra Angelico fresco. There are shopping bags, imprinted with Paul Iribe's 1907 illustration of Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite, and new shoe boxes much like antique library files, tied with black ribbons, to emphasize the precious nature of the product.
Owing partially to the influence of Beene, Elbaz's wearable, simple and feminine clothing—similar to the sporty, casual character of Lanvin's 1920s outfits—has become embraced by the fashion press. "... Elbaz is every woman's darling. And that includes Nicole Kidman, Kate Moss, Chloé Sevigny, Sofia Coppola and a slew of rising movie names" (Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune, May 24, 2005).

In January 25th 2007 , Elbaz gained the Named Chevalier of the Légion d'Honneur, Paris. Also he was listed among Time Magazine's 100 Most Influential People in The World.
On October 7, 2007 Alber Elbaz received a standing ovation for his Spring-Summer 2008 collection for Lanvin.

2009年2月28日 星期六

Designers at LANVIN

After Jeanne Lanvin dies in 1946, 6th of July, 12 designers had been the director of LANVIN in this half century.









































































From 2002 to now, Alber Elbaz is the artistic director of LANVIN. He plays an important role in the style of LANVIN these years.

2009年2月23日 星期一

Jeanne Lanvin - "Fusion of fashion and art"



















































The painting of Fra Angelico (Italian, ca. 1390/95-1455) inspired Jeanne Lanvin and she creats the classic colour of LANVIN - "Lanvin Blue".

Also, the major colour use for the decoration in Jeanne Lanvin's home is
"blue".

2009年2月9日 星期一