The show starts with an orange textured velvet in his familiar full-skirt look, and introduced new shapes in stricter black, including a knife-narrow version of his now classic taffeta raincoat. A sexily shaped jacket that appeared as part of black pencil skirt suit, and then in a gorgeous white panne velvet, will inspire women on the hunt for fall chic. As for Elbaz's best-selling dresses, there were plenty, ranging from a newly sober high-neck, long-sleeve black velvet number to more familiarly dainty styles in layered chiffons and plissé tulle, as well as high-waist ballerina dresses.
There are some apparently random surprises: two boldly colorful flowered dresses with mismatched floral coats. Perhaps they were indications of the way this extraordinary designer will take fashion next, and in that way, they have intriguing potential. But, like the rest of the show, they didn't quite move the label forward enough to make this season one of Elbaz's truly memorable spectaculars.
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